With anticipation running high, nearly 700 guests gathered at the Jio World Center in Mumbai for a fashion spectacle like no other. Legendary designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee, renowned for his opulent Indian aesthetic, marked the 25th anniversary of his brand with a star-studded runway show that blended tradition with contemporary influences.
The event opened with Bollywood icon Deepika Padukone, who made a striking entrance in a monochromatic white ensemble, accessorized with layered jewelry, including a signature crucifix from Mukherjee’s own collection. The evening reached its pinnacle as she joined supermodel Christy Turlington in the grand finale, a moment that underscored the global appeal of Sabyasachi designs.
A Fusion of Tradition and Modernity
Mukherjee’s latest collection showcased over 150 looks, each reflecting his signature craftsmanship while introducing elements of satire and social commentary. Embroidered skirts, ornate headpieces, and slogan-emblazoned tops carried statements like “Where has love gone?” and “All dressed up, nowhere to go.” The designer explained that these were meant to highlight the growing detachment in human relationships in an increasingly digital world.
Beyond his usual festive and bridal attire, the collection included structured trench coats, contemporary sweaters, and tailored shorts—signaling a shift towards a more diversified fashion portfolio. Nevertheless, grandeur remained a constant, with opulent jackets adorned with semi-precious stones, rich brocade fabrics, and luxurious velvet and faux-fur accents.
A Tribute to Kolkata’s Legacy
Born in Kolkata, Mukherjee has always drawn inspiration from the city’s vibrant culture. For this milestone show, he transported his guests to a reimagined version of his hometown, complete with colonial pillars, stained glass windows, and vintage blue doors. The ambiance resonated deeply with the audience, which included Bollywood stars Alia Bhatt and Rani Mukerji, as well as business magnate Kumar Mangalam Birla.
The evening was set to the tunes of Bengali music, featuring compositions by Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore. Mukherjee described Kolkata as a city of “contrasts and coexistence,” where historical grandeur meets the raw realities of urban life. This deep-rooted connection to his heritage was evident in every detail of the show.
Expanding Horizons
Looking ahead, Mukherjee is determined to position his brand as India’s first global luxury house. With plans to expand further into the U.S. market, he aims to collaborate with leading retailers and introduce new product lines, including fragrances and beauty collections. Additionally, he is diversifying into ready-to-wear apparel while preserving traditional craftsmanship in a modern context.
“We are pressing reset,” Mukherjee stated, emphasizing the shift away from reliance on bridal wear, which has long dominated Indian fashion. He noted that while weddings have driven luxury consumption in India, younger generations are now prioritizing experiences over material extravagance.
The evening concluded with Mukherjee taking a final bow alongside Padukone and Turlington, as a Bengali rendition of “We Shall Overcome” filled the venue. The lyrics, reimagined to speak of hope and resilience, encapsulated the essence of his creative journey. As the applause echoed through the hall, one message remained clear—Mukherjee’s vision for Indian fashion is not just about preserving heritage, but about evolving it for a global audience.
